Inari in Finnish Lapland

15th – 22nd February 2025

Whilst the desire to see the Northern Lights had been with me from quite a young age, I hadn’t considered planning this type of holiday until my parents did something very similar in 2014. Since then it has always been in the back of my mind, as it looked and sounded like such an amazing experience. So when we read that there would be a peak in solar activity between the end of 2024 and the beginning of 2026, we decided to go for it and booked a week in Inari at the Wilderness Hotel Inari in Finnish Lapland. And we had a fantastic time. It was not just the Aurora, which was admittedly the main highlight, but the other activities, the accommodation and the area itself. It you want to find out more about it, then please read on…

Contents

  1. Where to stay
  2. Getting there
  3. Day 1 – Arriving to Inari
  4. Day 2 – Meeting Reindeer and Aurora Preparation
  5. Day 3 – Snowmobiles
  6. Day 4 – Ice Fishing, Inari Village and Aurora
  7. Day 5 – Snowshoeing and more Snowmobiles
  8. Day 6 – The Siida Museum and more Snowshoeing
  9. Day 7 – Huskies!
  10. Day 8 – Heading home
  11. Final thoughts

Where to stay

We spent months researching and trying to find our ideal spot, as there are lots of potential places in Lapland for this type of trip. Rovaniemi is probably the most famous of these destinations, but when we looked into it, it looked quite big and built up. Plus, it seemed to be marketed more towards families visiting ‘Santa’s Village’. My parents visited Karesuando and whilst they had an amazing time, when we looked into the destination it seemed like it had expanded in the ten or so years since they were there. We looked into other destinations as well and nowhere seemed to quite fit what we were imagining. And given how expensive these trips are, we weren’t just going to go to somewhere unless we had a very positive feeling about it. In the end, Radka came across Inari as a destination when it popped up on Instagram. We looked into it further and found the Wilderness Hotel Inari.

The destination and accommodation seemed to tick all of our boxes. The village itself was quite small, but the accommodation was outside of the village anyway. It sat on the edge of a frozen lake, meaning there were big wide open paces to search for the Aurora. However, there were also forests covering the area to provide some different natural settings. The activities provided as part of the package were varied and exciting. And the accommodation itself looked amazing.

The main building with the restaurant, and the snowmobiles lined up outside.

Once we had made up our minds to go there, we still needed to choose our ‘accommodation within the accommodation’. The Hotel has a range of packages, linked to the length of stay and the activities that can be chosen. Also, you need to decide between the four different options for where you sleep. We ended up choosing the ‘Inari Winter Adventure Week’ for our package, as there were flights that matched this option and it most closely matched the activities that we wanted to do. The choice of room was probably more tricky. There was only the two of us, which ruled out the ‘Log Cabin’. But we weren’t sure between the other options. The ‘Wilderness Room’ was the simplest, and therefore the cheapest option. The ‘Aurora Cabins’ had large glass windows / ceiling panels that meant you could lie in bed and watch the sky for the Aurora, but they weren’t the most spacious and we were worried about how warm they would be given the amount of glass. The final option was the ‘Inari Arctic Chalet’, which was the most spacious and had the added luxury of a private sauna in the chalet (the others had separate saunas that you could book). In the end, we went for the Chalet as we thought the extra space would be useful if the weather was bad and we had to spend extended periods of time indoors. We also thought that if the Aurora was happening, we’d want to be outside anyway rather than watching it through glass.

Even with hindsight we made the correct decision, but we still maybe could have done things differently. One option that we just didn’t consider, was booking either the Room or Chalet for the majority of the stay but then booking the Aurora Cabin for one or two nights. We spoke to a few people who did this and I think it could be a nice idea. Although, there were mixed reviews from the people who did stay in them. Some really liked them but others were pretty underwhelmed, they mentioned how the Aurora had to be in exactly the right spot and the fact that the cabins were all next to each other meant that there was too much immediate light pollution. Plus, it was extra hassle to move your stuff over mid-stay. So, whilst it may have been nice to experience the Cabin, we were more than happy with our Chalet. It was really nice to have the extra space, because even though we generally didn’t spend that much time indoors during the day, the evenings were long, so it was nice to have somewhere extra to relax. We only used the sauna a couple of times and whilst it was a nice sauna, the glass wall linked directly into the bedroom. The one time we used the sauna in the evening, it made sleeping in the bedroom overly hot and uncomfortable. And given that the weather was pretty good during our week there, we tended to want to spend our time outside during the day. So, I think the prospect of having the sauna was actually better than the reality of having it, especially given that we could have booked one of the general saunas anyway.

Having the extra room cost more but was worth it.

One more thing to mention in terms of the accommodation was that when we booked, we asked to be put in one of the Chalets directly overlooking the lake if possible. We knew this was a long shot but given that we booked so early, it actually worked! Having the Chalet there definitely improved our experience. It meant the view was better and there were less people directly outside our windows (as the path would pass by the others that were further back). It also meant that we had the shortest distance to cover if the Aurora started and we wanted to get to the lake. So, if you decide to go for one of the Chalets, it’s worth writing a little comment on the comments section of your booking, just in case it’s possible.

Having the Chalet next to the lake made a difference!

Regarding the food at the Wilderness Hotel Inari, it was plentiful and tasty! Each meal (breakfast, lunch and dinner) was a buffet with a multitude of options, varying between local and Finnish fare to more international dishes. Just be aware, that if you want a window seat, you either need to be there very early or get very lucky! We also rarely got to enjoy the lunches as we were normally out on an activity, but the options they provided on these trips were also amazing. Neither of us are vegetarians, and whilst we know there were definitely options that cater for this, we cannot comment on the overall quality. One thing that surprised us was how much we actually liked the ‘full board’ aspect of the trip. Normally, we only book a room or possibly the bed and breakfast option, and then have to sort food ourselves, either by having a kitchen and preparing it, or going to cafes or restaurants. We normally like to have the freedom to adapt our meals to our days, but having the organisation of the meals and activities sorted by someone else really added to the relaxation and enjoyment of the trip. It certainly made us think twice about ‘all inclusive’ holidays and the like, which we would normally just dismiss out of hand. I guess we have a preconception of ‘all inclusive’ meaning you stay in the hotel and spend your time by a pool, but it certainly doesn’t have to be like that. Or maybe we’re just getting older and appreciate not having to make quite so many decisions anymore!

The common area, restaurant and bar, with the reception right next to the entrance.

Getting there

The nearest airport to Inari is Ivalo. For us, that meant flying to Vienna and then connecting on to Ivalo with Austrian Airways. We then had the same route in reverse for the way back.

Ivalo airport is pretty small, and when we got there we collected our luggage and headed out to the main hall, where we would find our hotel-organised pick-up. At this point there were loads of people with different signs for the different accommodations (not just the ones at Inari). Once you’ve found the right person with the correct sign (please make sure you get the exact match as both ‘Inari’ and ‘Wilderness’ were on several signs) you just have to wait until all of the people are ready. Unfortunately, a couple from our coach had issues with their luggage, so we ended up waiting for quite a while. We were also hungry, but there are very few options for food at this point of the airport, and what was there was very expensive. So, please bear this in mind and maybe bring a snack just in case.

Once everything was sorted, we were on our way. The drive took about 45 minutes with no problems and obviously drops you off directly at the hotel. The return journey worked in the same way, with certain taxi times corresponding to certain flights – it was a well-oiled machine.

Day 1 – Arriving to Inari

As already mentioned above, we arrived by flying into Ivalo Airport and then getting the organised transfer to the hotel. An issue with the organised transfer, however, is that a whole host of people arrive at the same time, and somehow we managed to be at the back of the queue for check in. But that gave us time to take turns having a little look around. The main building is huge, and consists of an activities desk and a reception as you enter; a large area on one side with comfy chairs, settees and wood fires; and then the huge dining area and bar taking up most of the space. There is also a small room off the dining room that we’d later use for our information session.

When we eventually made it to the front of the queue we were given maps and directions to our chalet; information about the area; and instructions for meals and the activities. We were also told where and when we could get fitted for our Artic gear, which is part of the package and is essential for when you’re spending any real time outside. We also rented an ‘Aurora Announcement’ device, which is like one of those disks you get at some restaurants that vibrates when your order is ready. Well this one was activated when someone reported an Aurora. I was slightly annoyed that we’d paid so much for the package and yet this was extra (the equivalent of about 30 euros), but it wasn’t worth the risk of missing an Aurora just for the principle. Although, in hindsight, they weren’t that useful – when there was the best Aurora we saw from the accommodation, the disk didn’t even go off. We also had to remember to drop it off and pick it up each day, as it needed to be charged during the day.

Whilst we were at the main hall, we took a look at our schedule of activities. We received a printed copy but two days of activities were also displayed on the screen above the activities desk. There are obviously multiple activities going on at any one time for different groups, so you need to be quite on the ball to keep track and make sure they don’t leave without you (they do try and find you but they also don’t wait that long). Radka had been feeling under the weather for a few days before arriving and when we reviewed our schedule, one of the more strenuous activities was down to be the first one the following morning. Thus we went to the desk and asked if we would be able to change it. We hadn’t realised what a complicated request that would be! They have strict numbers that can be doing any one activity with the number of guides they have, and once you move one activity, it affects your others for the rest of the week. Thus, it proved to be quite a challenge to find a better fit. But the woman at the desk was very pleasant despite the hassle and eventually managed to find a solution. So, if there is a problem with the order of your activities, they will try their best to re-order them for you, but it is not guaranteed.

After dropping off our luggage and checking out our chalet, we headed straight for the clothes fitting. You get a snow suit, a pair of mittens (that we tended to wear over our own thinner pairs of gloves); a pair of woollen socks (that again go over your normal socks); and a pair of sturdy, warm snow boots. You also get a balaclava for when you’re going on the snowmobiles, but we already had our own. They were all absolutely essential for when you were outside, especially in the evenings. I tended to even put on the snowsuit when I was going to meals and then leave it on the coat rack next to the entrance, because then if there was an Aurora alert during the meal, you could quickly put it back on before rushing outside (I learned that lesson the first evening when I hadn’t taken it…). The day itself and the activity determined how many layers we would put on underneath the provided gear. But generally, we still needed quite a bit, especially when you were out on the lake. Just remember that it’s better to have layers, as during some of the more physical activities (e.g. snowshoeing) you might want to take some off. One more clothing tip, the boots have an outer and an inner layer. It is best to take out the inner layer and air it out overnight.

It had been snowing whilst we walked back to our Chalet, but later on as we walked back to the restaurant, the sky had cleared and we got our first faint, wispy Aurora. The buzzer then went off several times during the meal and each time we headed outside to watch. Even though it was slightly larger than earlier, it was still only pale grey and wispy to the naked eye, like a strip of fog rolling in.

Our first Aurora of the trip – although the colour and intensity was only added by the camera.

After returning to our Chalet, we were relaxing by the window when a larger Aurora started out over the lake. We quickly got changed into our new overalls and headed out. This Aurora was much more vast than earlier, and whilst it still seemed grey to me, there was maybe the slightest green tinge with the naked eye. It was certainly enough to get us really excited for the week to come!

Again, this was mainly grey to the naked eye, but it was a lot more vast and noticeable than before.

Day 2 – Meeting Reindeer and Aurora Preparation

Due to managing to change the order of our activities, our first trip was to the Reindeer Farm, which was only a short coach ride away. After arriving, our guide gave a short introduction and some facts about the reindeer, such as how they lose their antlers during winter and re-grow them after the calves are born – the antlers can grow 2cm per day! We were then given a handful of a specific type of lichen (which is a delicious treat for the reindeer) and entered the enclosure. Most of the reindeer inside were inquisitive and keen to get the lichen, and were all really cute. Despite them being quite large animals, they were generally quite friendly, you just had to watch out for the sharp points on their antlers. A couple of them were, however, a bit skittish, so it required more patience to be able to approach them and offer them something to eat. The reindeer don’t really have teeth at the fronts of their mouth, so their mode of eating with the lips and tongues was quite amusing. This means that you don’t have to worry about getting your fingers bitten. The hard bit is only giving out a little bit to each reindeer, as they’ll quite happily much on your whole stash. It was an amazing activity to start with.

After a while in the enclosure, we went into the main building, which was new but modelled on a traditional hut. We sipped hot berry juice (the first of many that week) whilst the guide gave us more information about the reindeer and the culture of the herders. It was all very interesting, and was aided by props, such as the knives and tools of the herders, traditional shoes and clothes, and the cups that everyone in the culture must carve for themselves when they are young. These cups are called Kuksa, and are carved from the knots of birch trees (the ones we were using were replicas of the real things). The visit to the reindeer farm was one of my favourites activities from the whole week.

Traditional shoes that are designed to be able to clip onto traditional skis

After another huge meal for lunch, we relaxed in the main building until our Aurora Presentation. I also charged my camera batteries as I’d stupidly forgotten to pack my lead and they kindly leant me one at reception. The presentation took place in the little room off the main hall, and during it we learnt about the causes of the Aurora and were given some camera settings that we should try. Although I must admit, I was unable to get any good shots with my proper camera during the week, and the best ones we took were just using the ‘night mode’ on our phones! I should have put more effort into learning how to photograph the Aurora before we travelled to Finland, but it was really difficult when you couldn’t practise. And when the Aurora were happening, I was more intent on just trying to watch and take them all in rather than fiddle about with my camera settings. So whilst the presentation was interesting enough, it was a very minor event from the week.

We were hopeful for potential sightings that evening, given that the forecast showed strong solar activity, but as we walked back a while later the clouds came in and it started to snow again. Unfortunately they failed to clear by the evening, so there was no chance of seeing the Northern Lights, but that didn’t stop us going on a little walk on the frozen lake to try and digest another huge, tasty evening meal.

Day 3 – Snowmobiles

Clear skies and a colourful sunrise greeted us the following morning. Our first activity of the day was snowmobiling at 10:15. We first had to collect our helmets (we would have received a balaclava at this point if we’d needed one) and were given a briefing on the technical and safety aspects of driving a snowmobile. Neither Radka nor myself had ever driven one before, but we were told not to worry as most tourists coming to the resort hadn’t done so.

Not a bad way to start the day

I drove the first quarter of our trip and it took some getting used to, despite the fact I didn’t get above 34km/hr! But I was enjoying it by the time we stopped for a break. Despite the icy wind the adrenaline and heated handlebars helped to keep me warm. The break-point was very picturesque, as we stopped next to a small hill that would have been an island in the vast lake that spread out on all of the other sides.

Stopping for a break and to switch the driver

After a while we got going again, and Radka took us to our lunch stop. She took to it much faster than I did, and was quickly beating my speeds. It was actually quite nice to be the passenger as well, as you were more able to look around and enjoy the scenery. At one point we passed a signpost, which I found quite funny given that we were in the middle of a lake!

The lunch stop was nestled amongst the trees by the edge of the lake and consisted of a couple of huts and a fire pit. We had time for a little walk in amongst the trees and by the edge of the lake whilst the guides prepared our lunch, which was salmon soup, grilled cheese sandwiches and then a cinnamon roll with hot chocolate for afters. All of which were very tasty. Most of the group then took the opportunity to stay in the hut and continue to warm up but we went back outside and sat by the fire. It was very peaceful around, with the only sounds being the crackle of the fire and the fidgeting of a couple of Siberian Jays that had been attracted by the food. It just seemed that all other sounds were being absorbed by the thick powdery snow that carpeted the ground all around us.

The way back was much faster. We again split the trip into two halves and both of us were now much more comfortable with driving the snowmobile. One thing that we noticed on this return trip was that we kept crossing reindeer tracks despite not having seen any of the animals themselves. It had been a very fun trip.

Our second activity of the day was the Aurora Camp in the evening. This entailed the guides using snowmobiles to pull the rest of the group in sleighs across the lake to one of the camps. It was pretty cold in the sleigh without having a windshield to protect you. The set-up at the camp was much like what we had had during the lunchtime, but in a different spot along the lake. There was some free time to wander as the guides prepared the fires and we spent most of it lying on our reindeer hides on the ice watching the stars in the patchy sky. We then sat around the fires, warming up and hoping the aurora would appear. Most of the group ended up waiting inside the cabin due to the cold and the thick clouds that were becoming more prevalent, but we stayed out by the fire until we were called in when the hot drinks were ready. This was a perfect example of changeable weather conditions of the area. As we went in it was thick cloud and was starting to snow heavily, and we reported as such to everyone when we went inside. And yet, when someone went out just five minutes later, the snow has stopped, part of the sky had cleared and there was a faint Aurora above! We all went back out to watch the brief Aurora, before roasting a couple of marshmallows on the outside fire. After a while longer, it was time to head back to the hotel. Whilst it wasn’t great in terms of Aurora watching, we still had a nice time. 

Day 4 – Ice Fishing, Inari Village and Aurora

We only had one activity booked for the day, so just after 10am we headed out to try our hands at ice fishing. This was not an activity we would have chosen, but it was part of the package and we were still intrigued to try something new. For what ever reason, we ended up being the only guests doing that activity at that time, so it was just one guide pulling us along in our sleigh. Due to the small numbers we even got a blanket, which certainly helped with the cold journey. After 15 – 20 minutes we arrived at our destination by the side of the lake. This time there wasn’t a hut, but there was a large tee-pee style tent nestled amongst the trees. Our first job was to drill a hole in the ice with a long hand-operated drill, which looked like one of those ice coring machines. The guide made it look easy but it was quite tricky to get into a smooth routine. We were then given small fishing rods and taught the technique – use the ‘taught-ness’ of the line to determine where the bottom is, take the line in slightly, then repeatedly jerk the line up a bit before letting it go taught again. We lay on our reindeer hides and kept going at this for quite a while, sometimes with the guide and sometimes by ourselves whilst he prepared the fire back at the tee-pee. We didn’t catch anything so he decided that we should try another site a couple of dozen paces away. We dug three more holes and then the pattern continued. Radka and then myself had a couple of near misses one after the other (possibly the same fish?) before I did manage to snag a perch a while later. It was deemed too small, so we returned it to the water. I thought we’d been too slow getting the hook out as it seemed dead, but after a couple of seconds it just burst into life and swam away. Not long afterwards the guide also caught one, which he decided to keep and add to our lunch.

We retired to the tee-pee for lunch, which was cheese sandwiches and ‘reindeer soup’, although it was more of a stew with large chunks of meat and vegetables. It was very tasty, as was the fish, which the guide cooked in the same contraption that had been used for the sandwiches and cinnamon rolls the day before.

After eating, we had time to have a stroll as he was tidying away. Not long after we’d started off along the lake-side I took out my phone to take a photo and it was silently ringing – it was someone asking about organising an appointment to look at bathroom appliances for our new house back in Luxembourg. It was so surreal to be discussing something so mundane in such a setting. And I was very surprised that I was getting signal at all. It was a real reality check! We soon returned back to the campsite and then proceeded back to the hotel. It was not an activity we would have chosen but it was certainly different and the beautiful weather meant it had been quite nice to relax and lie on the lake. 

It was still lovely weather by the time we got back, so we decided to take advantage of this and walk to Inari village on the route across the frozen lake. Due to wearing too many clothes and  having to walk through fresh snow in parts, we found it really tough going! But we eventually walked the 3-4 km to the village. There didn’t seem to be much there (despite the presence of a set of Tesla charging stations…) so we just went to the souvenir store, which turned out to be absolutely massive and full of every type of Lapland souvenir imaginable. We were both too hot and tired to properly appreciate the novelty of it, but after taking a break outside to cool down, we did get a couple of things. We decided to walk back along the road, as it was shorter and easier walking… 

Walking to the Inari village

We debated whether to join one of the extra tours given that we had a free evening and the sky was still clear. Unfortunately, the search in the car was fully booked. But there were spaces available in the snowmobile-led-heated-sleigh. We decided it was worth a risk and booked it. So after dinner we headed off. There was a faint Aurora as we headed down to the sleigh, which we took as a promising sign. The sleigh was more like a weird box. Whilst we appreciated not being in the wind, it soon became very uncomfortable and you couldn’t really see outside. We drove for what seemed like forever out onto a spot on the lake. The lack of light pollution meant that the clear sky provided us with beautiful views of the stars, but despite waiting for quite a while, there was no aurora showing at all. We spent the time speaking to our guide, whose main job was as a reindeer farmer! He was a very interesting person and really seemed to love what he did. We then went back inside our box and headed to another spot. Same as before, nice stars but no aurora. We had a warm berry drink and some biscuits, which helped pass the time. Defeated, we headed back to the hotel. Our gamble has not paid off and I really disliked being inside the heated sleigh. But at least it meant we were up later than we might have been… 

The sky was beautiful

So, after spending 2.5 hours and and additional 320 EUR on the extra trip with not a hint of an Aurora, despite the clear skies; what it took for it to start was for me to get ready for bed, take out my contact lenses and lie down. Luckily, Radka was having a last check and rushed back to tell me that one had appeared and it was getting good. I managed to get outside in record time and thank goodness I did. It was just amazing. Instead of the general blurs we’d seen before, there were sharp bands. And whilst still not the toxic greens you see in pictures, these shapes were not the grey whispiness that could just have been clouds, they were an entity all to themselves. They had an inner light with parts having a hint of green at the top and splashes of pink at the bottom. They made vast shapes across the sky and at one point were 360 degrees around us. And whilst there were still general movements and some were like we’d seen before, when it looked like a cloud was moving fast in the wind, there was also intense movements where the bars were moving up and down, like a millipede running or a reindeer using its tongue and lips to hoover up some lichen. At one point I even saw a shooting star slash across part of the vast shape. It really was beyond words to describe and we just lay in the snow and enjoyed the majesty of nature. Radka felt that it was like a natural firework show sprinkling down light towards us. And luckily for us it lasted a good half an hour. That was what we’d hoped to see and if we didn’t see another Aurora before leaving, we’d have still gone home very happy indeed.

Words and photos just don’t do it justice

Day 5 – Snowshoeing and more Snowmobiles

After the excitement of the night before it was two very tired and groggy people that woke up to the alarm. Although we were rewarded with another beautiful morning as we went to breakfast. However, it had clouded over a bit by the time we were ready for the Snowshoeing Adventure. We first took a sleigh ride across the lake to one of their camps. Here we were given the snowshoes and some instructions before heading off into the forest. Whilst we were generally ascending, it wasn’t particularly steep and the pace was quite slow, so it was perfectly manageable. It didn’t take too long to get up to the nice viewpoint that we were aiming for. On the way up our guide pointed out the lichen that was growing on the branches and identified it as the type that we’d used to feed the reindeer during our first activity.

After time for photos at the viewpoint, we headed back down by a different track, stopping again once we reached the lake. Here we saw a reindeer in the distance heading across the frozen surface. This was the only reindeer we saw outside of the farm.

A lone reindeer strolling across the ice

We then headed back into the forest, stopping by what I thought was a young pine, but because of how slowly things grow in the arctic, it was about 17 years old. They estimated this based on the number of levels of branches on the tree. When we got back to the camp, the guides started preparing the fire and lunch, so we went to off into the forest for another little adventure on the snowshoes.  Lunch was basically a ‘reindeer kebab’, with lingonberries and reindeer meat inside of pita bread. They were so good that I couldn’t turn down a second one when it was offered… It was followed by a hot chocolate and a cinnamon roll. Once we’d all finished eating it was time to head back to the hotel on the snowmobile-powered sleighs. It was freezing, but the sun was peaking out again and it made for a nice time to reflect on another fun activity.

After dinner, it was time for our hunting of the Aurora on snowmobiles. By that time it was obviously dark and I found driving the snowmobile under those conditions to be much more challenging and harder to get used to. Our first stop due to an Aurora had a nice but faint shape and our guides taught us how to use a second phone as a torch to highlight people or objects in the foreground. The group then spend time taking some photos on the snowmobiles using this technique.

Using the second phone as a torch was a great tip!

We then carried on further onto the lake and made another stop in the middle of no-where to look at a nice ‘bridge Aurora’ that dissected the sky in the direction we were travelling. We stayed there for quite a while, lying on the ice, appreciating it and taking the odd photo. And we were lucky we did… After a while the Aurora started getting visibly stronger and before we knew it we were being treated to another dancing Aurora. This one was different to the night before, in that there weren’t the distinct bars within the shape. But the dancing and movement was more extensive and arguably more mesmerising, as it looked like smoke swirling around and making magical patterns. Even though the shapes seemed less pronounced, there were still times where you could see the pinks and greens edging the patterns. Like yesterday, the auroras were 360 degrees around us, but because we were in the middle of the lake rather than on the edge, it seemed more vast given the distance to the horizon in all directions. I couldn’t believe how lucky we were to have seen Auroras like this two days in a row. I was so mesmerised I didn’t even think about trying to take photos. They would never have done it justice anyway. After a hot drink, it was time for Radka to get her turn and drive us back to the hotel.

The Aurora before it became stronger and started dancing

Day 6 – The Siida Museum and more Snowshoeing

Our morning activity involved visiting the Siida Museum near the Inari village and this was the only activity that we didn’t need to wear the snowsuit. This museum acts as the main Sámi culture and heritage centre, and was voted as the European Museum of the Year in 2024 by the European Museum Forum. After first dropping off our extra layers and backpacks in the lockers, we then looked around the temporary exhibits, including one by Anna Katerina Pakkanen, a Finnish artist who documented the life of a pine tree with a series of drawings and paintings, whose bold, bright colours were very striking and impressive (well at least to me). The main permanent exhibits had loads of information about the history and nature of the region along with cultural displays linked to the Sámi people. Whilst very interesting and well presented, there was just too much to take in during one sitting. I would need to come back and break it down into smaller chunks.

Part of the permanent exhibition

After collecting our coats, we proceeded to the open-air part. Unfortunately, a lot of this was closed due to slippery surfaces, but there were still a couple of traditional wooden houses, along with a sauna and storage buildings. These buildings had seemingly been real residences from a couple of hundred years ago, but had been moved to the current location and restored. The museum was pleasant and a nice change of pace compared to the other activities. It also meant that we got back in time to enjoy lunch at the hotel for only the second time during our trip.

Inside one of the restored traditional houses

After a relaxing afternoon, it was time for our Aurora Snowshoeing activity. Following a short drive (5 – 10 minutes), we got our snowshoes and headed off into the pine trees. It was fun walking in the forest and we were soon too warm for our multiple layers. We alternated between the forest and along the edges of small (frozen) lakes and rivers. The guide pointed out where blocks of ice formed over rocks in the water, and then when the water levels drop, the bits of ice stay pushed up into mounds. After a while we arrived at a place where we could have a fire and a hot berry juice. For most of the trip the sky was cloudy, and even when patches became clear we weren’t graced with even a whisper of an Aurora. So, whilst it was a fun trip, it was ultimately unsuccessful.

The darkness and head torches added an extra dimension to the snowshoeing

Day 7 – Huskies!

Well, they saved the best activity until last. The Husky Sledding was absolutely fantastic! It was just so much fun that I don’t think I stopped smiling the whole time. The drive there wasn’t long, just ten minutes or so, and then we had to walk past the dogs, having been told to try our best to ignore them (until after they’d used up their excess energy on the run). We were then given some instructions, but it felt that these were pretty light and lacking in detail, but that’s all we got before getting into the sleds.

We went through this sign, got told how to use the break, and that was about it!

Whilst we were waiting, the dog behind Radka kept biting at her clothing and jumped on her back at one point, it was just so excited to be off. It took a while for everyone to get sorted and have the gear double-checked, before each team was released separately. The dogs are so well trained that they know where they’re going and all you have to do is slow down (step onto the break a bit), stop (both feet on the break) or get the sled going again (give it a bit of a ‘push-off’ using one foot). Radka did the first half whilst I sat on the sled enjoying the view and the funny shenanigans of the dogs, such as eating snow whilst running, or digging holes when we stopped. Three times, however, they went too close to a tree and we ended up crashing (a big thud followed by bouncing off). Luckily the sled never tipped over despite the crashes.

After swapping over it was my turn. If was actually easier than I was expecting. You cant really control their direction so you just have to worry about the speed or when to stop. And the dogs are really well trained so they quickly respond to any changes in pressure caused by the break. We were probably out for the best part of an hour, but it didn’t feel like it and absolutely flew by.

After getting back to the base, we had time to go round the dogs and give them a pat now that they were tired and less agitated. They were very cute and good natured, although one did pee on Radka’s leg when she was looking the other way… We then had a hot drink in one of the huts and had time to ask the guide some questions. The last part of the activity was visiting the cages with the five month old puppies, which was a lovely way to end. It had been an amazing afternoon!

Upon arriving back to the hotel, we decided to have a little play with the sledges on the little slope outside the restaurant that led down to the lake. It was fun aiming for the bump that would send you airborne. I think the sledges were meant for kids but the only time I saw them being used was by adults! Whilst there were quite a few kids at the hotel, I don’t know if I would bring them on this type of holiday. They can’t drive the snowmobiles, so spend all of that time cold and bored in a sleigh. It would be hard for them to get far on the snowshoes. And whilst I’m sure they’d enjoy playing in the snow, there are much cheaper destinations for that…

It was only a little slope but it was still fun

Day 8 – Heading home

Given that our flight wasn’t until the afternoon, we were able to enjoy a lazy morning and get everything sorted. Luggage can be left outside the Chalet to be collected on a motorised cart by the hotel staff and brought to the main building. But we did need to return all of our borrowed Arctic gear, which had done a sterling job. There is a range of times that transfers go back to the airport and you just need to sort the appropriate one for your flight. The staff know about the road conditions and can advise you which one to take. It all went smoothly but we were very sad to be leaving. But it had certainly been a magical trip.

Final thoughts

If you’ve made it this far through the post then I’m sure you’re already aware of how amazing we found this experience. It was easily one of the best holidays we’ve ever had.

Seeing the Aurora was a dream come true. Words really cannot describe the feelings you have whilst watching them. They are just completely majestic and awe-inspiring. And the crazy thing is that we’ve been told they can get a lot more impressive than the ones we saw. But if I never see another Aurora in my lifetime, I’ll be more than happy with the ones we experienced on this trip.

Whilst the Auroras were the man highlight of the trip, the best activities for me were the Husky Sledding and visiting the Reindeer Farm. The sledding was just so much fun and feeding the reindeer was a great experience. That’s without even mentioning the snowmobiles, snowshoeing, or the ice fishing. And given how fun they were, the fact that they don’t crack the top three really just shows the level of enjoyment throughout the trip.

This is not a cheap trip and I don’t think it can be done on a whim and without planning, but if you’re ever in a position when you are able to do it, then we couldn’t recommend it highly enough.

Thanks for reading and making it to the very end!

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