Rainbow Mountain and the Red Valley

So after taking a couple of days to rest after the Salkantay and Inca Trail treks, our next place to visit was the Rainbow Mountain and Red Valley.

There were any number of tour agencies advertising day trips to what is quickly becoming one of Peru’s most popular tourist attractions. The prices varied significantly from around $25 (US Dollars) all the way up to $80. The only difference I could tell is that the expensive one went a couple of hours earlier (3am) and thus got there before the crowds hit. Whilst it would be nice to have the mountain to yourself, we ended up going with Vertigo Travel Peru. We paid 80 soles (about $20) upfront and then had to pay the entrance fees separate. We were told it would be 15 soles for the main entrance and then 10 soles if we then wanted to go to the Red Valley. But it ended up being 25 soles for the main entrance and then two lots of 10 soles for the Red Valley. So all in all, a bit over $30 for the trip.

It was an early start (about 5am) as it’s a long drive to the site. This was interspersed by a nice breakfast (standard Peruvian breakfast of some bread buns and jam and an egg option, plus juice and tea). We soon realised that we were the only non-Peruvians on the bus but everyone was friendly and the guide would talk to us separately in English when giving instructions.

The entrance to the site

After getting off the bus we soon separated from the rest of the group as we were the only ones who wanted to visit the Red Valley as well in the allotted timeframe. So the plan was to power on ahead and get there as quickly as possible. This plan failed. The starting point for the walk is at over 4,600 metres above seal level and it rises to about 5,100 metres above sea level at the viewpoint. And the altitude made it really hard for us. Whilst we had been fine during the Salkantay Trek and Inca Trail, we think that the quick ascent on the minibus to an already quite high altitude made it difficult to adapt. But we carried on as best as we could, avoiding the temptation to take one of the horses offered by locals almost continuously along the 3-4 km path. Along the way you have nice (normal coloured) mountains flanking your ascent, with llamas grazing and caracara birds keeping an eye on you.

With the pathway being busy, we also had to keep putting our mask back on, which certainly did not help with breathing. Towards the end of the path, it gets pretty steep but by now you are starting to see the fabled colours of the Rainbow Mountain.

Once you get to the viewpoint you can see the mountain in all of it’s glory and it is worth the effort. Although by this point it is almost impossible to get a photo without the other masses of people that were there, but we tried. Whilst the amount of people did detract from the experience, you can see why it is so popular.

After a while of enjoying the view, we had to get on so that we were back by the time set. Once you get down the initial steep part, there is a rope that trails off towards the left of the main pathway. This is the start of the path to the viewing point for the Red Valley. At this point at least 95% of the crowds headed back down the main path meaning we had the route almost to ourselves. Near the turn-off from the main path, there is a lady waiting to collect your 10 soles entrance fee and after that you are just walking through the different coloured dusts. I think I probably enjoyed this part more than the Rainbow Mountain itself.

At the viewpoint there was another lady waiting to take a second lot of 10 soles, which confused us a lot as we weren’t expecting her. But it was worth it for the views of the Red Valley. Prior to going on the trip, we’d tried to find a company that added walking in the Red Valley to the day trip, but apparently it was closed during COVID. The views were a good substitute, however, with the red hills stretching out before you.

We had about 15 minutes to savour the views before we had to head down again. That was the only thing I didn’t enjoy about the trip, it was quite rushed and you didn’t get to relax and really take in the amazing sights.

Once we were down we set off straight away back to Cusco. We stopped for a nice lunch (both breakfast and lunch were included in the price) and were back in Cusco by the evening.

I thoroughly enjoyed this trip. It is a must-do when you’re in Cusco, just make sure to also head up to the Red Valley viewpoint.